Jejuri – Golden temple of Maharashtra

Sonyachi Jejuri, as many call it- is a place of religious and historic importance in Pune district of Maharashtra. Popular for its Kandoba temple, Jejuri is located 50 km from Pune. It was at Jejuri, khodoba (an incarnation of lord Shiva) destroyed the demons called Mani and Malla. Since lord Khandoba won the battle on this hill, the hill became popular as Jayadri ( jay means victory and Adri means hill. In short it means, place where victory was won). Latter, the place become famous as Jay Nagari and today it’s known as Jejuri.

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I had heard about Sonaychi Jejuri from many people. The use of turmeric to worship Lord Kandoba and various tales prevailing the place had often made me curious about this place. Finally, in February 2020 we visited the Sonaychi Jejuri.

The legend of Khandoba

Khnadoba is the most popular kuladiavat (family deity) of Maharashtra and also some parts of Karnataka. He is worshipped by almost all families of Maharashtra irrespective of there caste. Khandoba is basically considered and owned as the god of Kshatriya clans. However, Mhalasa – Khandoba‟s first wife was from Lingayat caste and Banubai – his second wife, was an adopted daughter of a couple from Dhangar caste. Hence, people from both these castes worship him. In addition to that Ramoshi, Koli, Mang communities too worship him. Khandoba is a god of Deshasth Brahmins also.

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In Maharashtra, Muslim people worship Mallukhan that is Malhar (Khandoba). In Maharashtra and some parts of Karnataka, people from all walks of society pray to him. In spite of being a regional head, over a period of time, Khandoba’s image has transformed into an image of people’s god.

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Khandoba is known to people by different names like Malhari, Mailar, Martand, Martand Bhairav, Malhari Martand, Mhalasakant (Mhalasa’s husband), Sadanand, Khandoji, Khanderaya, Mallukhan, Ajmatkhan etc. Khandoba’s idol is typically depicted with four arms, in one of which he holds a Bhandara-patra or the bowl of turmeric powder. Bhandara in Marathi means turmeric with small pieces of coconut. Khandoba is worshipped with turmeric, belfruit-leaves, onions and other vegetables. Some deities also offer him puran poli – or a bharit rodga of onion and brinja.

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Kandoba Temple at Jejuri

At Jejuri, Khandoba resides at two places. One of the hill is called Kadepathar and the other hill is called Jejuri fort.

Khandoba Temple at Kadepathar

Kadepathar is located about 3.5 km from Jejuri Village. The temple is east facing. This place is famous among devotees as Old fort. To reach the temple you have to climb approximately 750 steps. There is a self manifested Linga of Khandoba and Malsa at this place.

Khandoba Temple at Jejuri Fort

This place is also called new gad or Gad Kot temple and is often crowded. In comparison to the Kadepathar this is the most visited temple at Jejuri. We visited this place on an amavasya hence it was over crowded. To reach the temple one has to climb around 200 steps. As you start climbing the steps you get to see the real color of Jejuri i.e yellow. It feels that you have entered a world of yellow color.

There are many stalls lined on both side of the steps selling turmeric along with coconut know as bhandara, Oti for the two goddess, puja items, toys, souvenirs and many more. If you get tired then there are stalls selling sugarcane juice and lime water for you. Trust me, the experience of climbing the hill specially during the time it is crowded is one of the best.

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This place is often visited by newly married couples. There is a tradition of lifting your wife and climbing the steps in order to celebrate their wedlock and wish for a happy and prosperous married life. So don’t wonder if you get to see husbands lifting there wives while climbing the steps. You also get to see some stalls where you can take your photograph wearing pheta or traditional caps while holding swords. Some couples also visit Jejuri to make a wish for a child. As, it is believed that Khandoba is the god of fertility.

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You get to visit few small temples while you reach the main Khandoba temple. One such prominent temple is of Bhanubai, the second wife of Khandoba. All these temples and steps are colored in yellow. You get to see people showering turmeric in the air, on the idols, on the steps hence the term Sonaychi Jejuri. You also get to witness an atmosphere full of chant and shout in praise of lord Khandoba like ‘Yelkot Yelkot Jai Malhar’, ‘Sadanandache Yelkot’. 

Once you reach the temple, you get to see devotees all soaked in turmeric. The main temple consists of a mandapa (audience hall), a garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) and a central courtyard lined with four large stone deepa stambhas (lamp towers). If you happen to visit this place on a crowded day then there are VIP passes available for Rs. 50 per person.

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We got to witness many eye catching activities at this place. Once such activity was a group of men flagellating themselves and coming out of it unharmed. The devotees believe they are temporarily connected to the divine, thus making them immune to the stimuli of pain. Self-flagellation is also a means of purifying one’s soul or an act of penance for a sin that one might have committed. Another such activity that we witness, was a group of pundits seated in some order and each performing some ritual of Tali Bhandar

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The tale of Martand Bhairav

The tale dates back to Krta yug (In Hinduism, Krta yug is the first of the four Yugas, the “Yuga of Truth”, when humanity is governed by gods). It said that during Krta yug the Seven Sages ( Saptarishi) were performing yagya (a ritual done in front of a sacred fire, often with mantras) on the Manichurna mountain. During that time two demons Mani and Malla attacked the mountain and destroyed the yagya. The sages asked Lord Indra and Lord Brahma for help. However, both of them were helpless against the growing violence and power of demons Mani and Malla. So, the sages went to kailash mountain to ask the help of lord Shiva.

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Owing to the prayers of the sages and gods, Lord Shiva took the form of Martand Bhairav and Parvati took the form of Malsa . Shiva and Parvati rode towards the Manichurna mountain to fight the demons Mani and Malla. The battle began in the month of Margasirsha on the day of Amavasya (no moon day ) and lasted for six days. It ended during the Sashthi Thithi. Hence, a six days festival called Champa-Shashti is celebrated at Jejuri in the month of Margasirsha. After defeating the two monsters, Shiva became know as Martand Bhairav. Shiva also became famous as Khandoba, since he killed the demons with a weapon Khadag (sword) in his hands during that battle.

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When Khandoba killed Mani, he kept his leg on Mani’s forehead. Before dying, Mani realized his mistakes and prayed to the god. He said that since he was born in demon’s family he forgot about god. But now, just before the death, he became pious by god’s touch. Therefore, he requested the God that his existence should always be in the company of God for only that could give him some salvation. Hearing the request, Malhari-Khandoba gave blessing to Mani. As a result, we see the statue of Mani riding horse at Jejuri’s Khandoba temple.

Similarly, when Khandoba killed Mallasur (Malla), even Malla asked for God’s mercy and requested that his name should be attached with God’s name. Khandoba granted his wish and hence Khandoba is also know as Malhari (one who killed Mall). Thus, Malla was given a permanent place on Jayadri mountain of Jejuri in form of standing statue of Mallasur with his hands folded for prayers right opposite the temple of Khandoba. It looks as if he is praying to the god.

Following the victory, Lord Shiva installed himself at this place in form of Swaysmbhu (self- manifested) Linga.

Significance of showering turmeric at Jejuri

There are many tales, specifying the reason turmeric is showered at Jejuri. According to one of the prevailing legend, lord Shiva looked very scary when he incarnated himself in the form of Martand-Bhairav. At that time, all gods and rishis showered him with Haridra Churna (Bhandara (Turmeric)). Since then, bhandara became god’s favourite. When Khandoba won a battle against the monsters, he was showered with gold coins and bhandara. As a result, until today people shower bhandara and dried coconut in piece on Lord Khandoba. As now, people cannot afford gold coins to shower on god.

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As per another legend, the Goddess of Night – Rajani had the complexion of night (dark). She always wondered, what she would look like, if she had the complexion of the golden sun. Mustering courage to ask for the impossible, she climbed up to Mount Kailas. Prostrating at Shiva’s feet, she told him, ‘Lord, I am an unfortunate soul who’s forever dark. Could you bless me with a golden hue?’ Shiva blessed her and told her to go and lie down on top of Mount Skanda. He said that, after a while, you will disappear into the womb of Mother Earth and will be reborn as the plant of turmeric that will have the complexion of molten sun. You will become the symbol of purity and auspiciousness. And when I descend on Earth as Khandoba, my favourite offering will be the powder of turmeric!’

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Many also believe that the tradition of showering turmeric emerged from the old Indian tradition of applying turmeric to the bride and groom on the eve of their wedding day. As the on the festival of Champa Shashti (the wedding ritual and great union of Lord Khandoba and his wife Malsha is celebrated) turmeric is showered of the god. Many believes Khandoba as one of the descendants of the Sun God Surya. Several paintings depict him riding a horse with a bowl full of turmeric powder just as the Sun God. For the devotees at Jejuri, turmeric signifies gold. Therefore, throwing turmeric around symbolizes the gold and riches that Lord Khandoba should bless them with.

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Insider tips:

1. How to reach
   1. By bus: Jejuri is 50 km from Pune and 203 k.m. from Mumbai. There are frequent State transport buses for Jejuri from Pune Swargate bus depo.
   2. By train: Jejuri station is situated on the Pune-Miraj route. Many express and passenger trains stop at Jejuri Railway Station.
   3. By air: Pune airport is the nearest airport to reach Jejuri. From Pune airport one can take the state transport buses or hire a taxi for Jejuri.
2. Budget: Approximately Rs. 1000 per person per day (including travel and food)
3. Best time to visit: If you want to experience the real Jejuri then, I would recommend visiting during the time of Bhandara festival. The festival takes place on Somvati Amavasya- a new moon day that falls on a Monday. It usually happens two or three times a year. You can also visit Jejuri during the Annual six-day fair (Jejuri Yatra) which is celebrated from the first to sixth lunar day of the bright fortnight of the Hindu month of Margashirsha. However, Jejuri is overly crowded during this time. So if you don’t like crowd then you can visit Jejuri anytime.
4. Near by attraction: Along with Jejuri there are four nearby tourist destinations you can visit.
   1. The Moreshwar temple of Lord Ganesha is about 18 k.m from Jejuri in the Moregaon Village. It happens to be the first Ganesha among the Ashtavinayak and hence is a popular pilgrimage site.
   2. Mayureshwar Wildlife sanctuary – the smallest wildlife sanctuary is around 30 k.m from Jejuri. Mentioned below is the link to this tiny sanctuary which is full of surprises. https://inmyi.com/travel/mayureshwar-wildlife-sanctuary
   3. Bhigwan famous for migratory bird watching especially flamingoes is around 80 k.m from Jejuri. Don’t forget to check my blog on Bhigwan.
      https://inmyi.com/travel/bhigwan-a-paradise-of-migratory-birds https://inmyi.com/image-gallery/birds-at-bhigwan
   4. Siddhivinayaka Temple, Siddhatek of lord Ganapati is around 75 km from Jejuri. It is the second Ganesha among the Ashtavinayak and hence is a popular pilgrimage site. Here, is a link to my blog on Siddhi-Vinayaka Temple, Siddhatek. https://inmyi.com/travel/siddhivinayak-temple-siddhatek-ashtavinayak-ganpati

In nutshell

Jejuri is a place of religious and historic importance near Pune, where the popular god of Maharashtra and Karnataka – Khandoba, also known as people’s god resides. Once you enter the temple premises you enter a beautiful world full of golden yellow color. One get to witness devotees throwing turmeric on each other and all around, filling the air and the skies in beautiful hues of golden. Indeed making it Sonaychi Jejuri (Golden Jejuri). The atmosphere is full of chant and shout of ‘Yelkot Yelkot Jai Malhar’, ‘Sadanandache Yelkot’. All this makes Jejuri a perfect one day religious tourist destination.

Yelkot Yelkot Jai Malhar