Having recently relocated to Pune, our exploration of the city led us to the Shaniwar Wada Heritage Walk organized by DLRC Facilitator and Heritage Learning Curator Prathamesh Pawar. This experience introduced us to many hidden aspects of Shaniwar Wada, a historical gem nestled in the heart of Pune, India, resonating with the echoes of a bygone era.
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Shaniwar Wada History
Shaniwar Wada, originally constructed in 1732 by the Peshwa Bajirao I as the residence and administrative center of the Maratha Empire, witnessed a rich history filled with political significance and architectural grandeur. However, in 1827, tragedy struck when a devastating fire engulfed the palace, reducing it to ruins over three long days. Latter, the British repurposed the premises as a Mamledar Kacheri, and further as a mental asylum and a prison.
In a turn of events, the Prince of Wales declared Shaniwar Wada a heritage site, symbolizing its enduring cultural importance. Efforts were made to restore its legacy, with trees planted at the site.
Following India’s independence, the government of Maharashtra, in collaboration with the Archaeological department, transformed the ruins into a tourist destination, preserving its historical significance for future generations to appreciate.
Exploring the facts through Shaniwar Wada Heritage Walk
1. Guardian of Shaniwar Wada History: Baji Rao I’s Statue at Shaniwar Wada of Peshwa Baji Rao I
During our iconic Shaniwar Wada heritage walk in Pune, we were greeted by an equestrian statue facing north, portraying Shrimant Bajirao Ballal, also known as Baji Rao I or Bajirao Peshwa, the 7th Peshwa of the Maratha Empire. As we stood before this magnificent statue, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe at the legacy of this great military leader and statesman. Surrounding the statue, we discovered beautifully crafted stone plaques detailing Bajirao I’s life and accomplishments, adding a personal touch to our exploration. This statue, erected proudly in front of the palace, marked the beginning of our journey through the rich history of Shaniwar Wada.
2. The Batatya Maruti Temple of Shaniwar Wada
While moving from the Peshwa Baji Rao I statue to the Dili Darwaza (Gate) of Shaniwar wada, we came across the Batatya Maruti Temple. Facing the wada is an open ground. Following the decline of the Peshwa, this area transformed into a marketplace where various vendors sold vegetables, fruits, spices, and more. Adjacent to the spot where potato vendors operated, there stands a small Maruti temple. This is how the temple acquired its name, Batatya Maruti.
3. Five Gates of Shaniwar Wada
This fortress of Shaniwar Wada has five gates, with each gate safeguarding the rich history of Shaniwar Wada.
I. Dili Darwaza also known as Delhi Gate:
Dili Darwaza, also known as Delhi Gate, serves as the primary entrance to the wada, facing north towards Delhi, hence its name. This gate symbolizes the Peshwa’s ambition to conquer Delhi from the Mughals. Each door of the gate has long spikes to stop enemy elephants from entering the wada.
As we stepped through the grand entrance gate into the wada, its size immediately captivated us, much like other tourists. However, as our exploration progressed, we uncovered the intricate designs embellishing the gate’s walls, including Rajput-style paintings depicting scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Ganpati inside. These artworks are thought to have been inspired by Rajput traditions. Sadly, the ravages of time have taken their toll on these paintings, leaving only faint remnants visible today.
II. Mastani Darwaza or Mastani gate:
The northern wall of the wada features a smallest gate known as Mastani Darwaza, later renamed Alibahadur after Mastani’s grandson. Mastani, second wife of Bajirao Peshwa, utilized this gate to enter and exit Shaniwar Wada.
III. Khidki Dwarwaza or Dindi Darwaza:
During our Shaniwar Wada heritage walk, we learned that this particular darwaja was designated for messengers delivering crucial messages to the Peshwa. It was fascinating to discover that these messengers would wait outside the door, engaging in conversations primarily through the different khidki’s (windows) on the gate. Adjacent to the khidki darwaja, we noticed a resting place specifically allocated for these messengers, adding to our understanding of the wada’s intricate design and functionality.
IV. Ganesh Darwaza:
It is said that this door was used by ladies to visit the Ganesh temple nearby.
V. Narayan Darwaza or Jambhul Darwaza:
Originally known as Jambhul Darwaza due to its proximity to a large Jambhul tree, this door was later named as Narayan Darwaja after the tragic event of Peshwa Narayan Rao’s killing.
Credit: Marathe va Ingraj (3rd Ed. 1922) Narsinha Chintaman Kelkar https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.366561/ | M. V. Dhurandhar
Shaniwar Wada Haunted story | Shaniwar Wada horror story
Many of us might have heard about the Shaniwar Wada haunted story. The tale unfolds after the demise of Vishwasrao and Madhvrao, when their younger brother Narayanrao ascended to the position of Peshwa. This decision disappointed Raghunathrao and his wife Anandibai, who harbored ambitions of claiming the title themselves.
Raghunathrao sent a letter to the Gardi tribe, instructing them to “नारायणरावास धरावे” (Catch Narayanrao), but Anandibai altered the letter, changing “ध” to “म”, resulting in “नारायणरावास मारावे” (kill Narayanrao). On the eve of Ganesh Chaturthi, the Gardi tribe infiltrated the wada to carry out the assassination.
Despite Narayanrao’s valiant efforts to defend himself, pleading with his uncle Raghunathrao for help, he was brutally murdered along with his bodyguard in a cowshed within the palace grounds. The brutality of the attack made it nearly impossible to identify the victims’ remains, which were later carried through the Jambhul Darwaza for cremation; hence the Darwaza was renamed as Narayan Darwaza. It is believed that Shaniwar Wada is haunted with the spirit of Narayanrao and his cries for help can be heard on every full moon night.
4. Nagar khana
Just above the Dili gate we got to see a Nagarkhana. This Nagarkhana is the only remain of Shaniwar Wada which has not been destroyed in the fire. Nagarkhana was used to make importance announcement like visitors at the gate by beating the huge drums kept at the Nagarkhana. Latter, the Nagarkhana was used a mamledar kacheri by the Britishers. One gets to see the view of entire Saniwar Wada from the Nagar khana.
5. Chiman bagh (Garden)
It is a miniature garden build for amusement of young Chimanrao Peshwa. Adorned with intricate floral beds, ornately shaped water pools, and seating platforms, the garden exuded tranquility and elegance. Today, Chiman baug stands as one of the most well-preserved structures within Shaniwar Wada, preserving its beauty for generations to admire.
6. The ‘Hazari Karanje’ or Thousand-Spray Fountain
It stands as a testament to artistic brilliance and engineering ingenuity, designed to delight and captivate Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao. Its creation sparked both curiosity and amazement among onlookers.
Resembling a blooming lotus with sixteen intricately crafted petals, each adorned with sixteen spouts, this fountain boasts a circumference of eighty feet. Remarkably, it is believed that no other fountain in India, or even in Europe, aside from Rome’s famous ‘Fontana di Trevi,’ features such a dazzling display of one hundred and ninety-six jets. The water dances gracefully, forming a myriad of enchanting patterns, making it a truly mesmerizing sight to behold.
During of Shaniwar Wada heritage walk, we learned that the water for the fountain was meticulously sourced from a well along the riverbank, transported through channels (paat), and elevated to the upper tower tank using a Persian wheel. From there, it flowed by gravity to reach the fountain spouts, showcasing the ingenious engineering prowess of the Peshwas. It was fascinating to discover that the water pipelines built by the Peshwas continue to carry water to most of Pune even today, underscoring their enduring legacy of innovation and infrastructure development.
Read about other hidden gem in Pune:
- Baneshwar Cave Temple: Unveiling the Mystery of 5,000 Years
- Unveiling The Majestic Kasba Ganpati Mandir: A Journey Through 384 Years Of Resilience And Devotion.
Misconception about Height of Shaniwar wada
Our Shaniwar Wada heritage walk revealed us a prevailing misconception regarding the height of Shaniwar Wada, which is often believed to be seven stories tall, as indicated in later records describing it as “saat majali kalsi bangla”. However we came to know that adjacent to the main mansion, there was a separate structure known as Kothi, forming part of the saat-khani wada (with “khan” denoting the unit of space between two wooden pillars). This five-storeyed building, inclusive of the ground floor, featured two towers topped with domical structures. Such towers, prevalent during medieval times, served various purposes like surveillance, sky observation, or leisure activities.
Anecdotes suggest that the towers provided panoramic views, with claims that the shikharas (towers) of temples in Alandi were visible from the seventh storey. Unfortunately, the tower at Shaniwar Wada met a tragic fate, being consumed by fire in 1794.
Tragedies and Transformations of Shaniwar Wada
Throughout its storied history, Shaniwar Wada has borne witness to a series of tragic events that have left indelible marks on its legacy. Despite enduring multiple fires, including one in 1791, the wada has faced even greater calamities.
In 1817, the last occupant, Bajirao II, experienced exile, marking the end of an era as the British Union Jack replaced the Keshari zenda(flag). The palace halls have also been witness to heinous acts, such as the murder of the young Peshwa Narayanrao, orchestrated by his own kin.
Furthermore, the wada has been touched by personal tragedy, exemplified by the accidental death of Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao, who tragically fell to his demise from the high palace walls of Ganesh Ranga Mahal.
Amidst these tragedies, the fall of the Bhat Peshwas from their once glorious and grand stature serves as a poignant reminder of the transient nature of power and influence within the palace walls.
Visiting Shaniwar Wada Today
Today, Shaniwar Wada stands as a popular tourist attraction, drawing history enthusiasts, architecture admirers, and curious minds. Visitors like us can explore the ruins, stroll through its expansive grounds, and imagine the vibrant life that once thrived within its walls.
- Baneshwar Cave Temple: Unveiling the Mystery of 5,000 Years
- Unveiling The Majestic Kasba Ganpati Mandir: A Journey Through 384 Years Of Resilience And Devotion.
In conclusion, Shaniwar Wada stands not just as a historical structure but as a living testament to the rich cultural and political tapestry of the Maratha Empire. Its walls may have weathered the test of time, but the stories it tells continue to captivate those who are fortunate enough to step into its storied past.
